Wasef Manzil – The New Palace of Murshidabad

Discover heritage trails of Bengal with our travel expert Reetwika Banerjee.

Syed Wasef Ali Mirza Khan Bahadur, the 17th Nawab of Murshidabad, had constructed a palatial residence after succeeding the throne. His wife, Nadar Jahan Begum named the beautiful edifice as ‘Wasef Manzil’ (Manzil in Urdu means ‘a royal abode’) in the honour of new Nawab. The building plan was architected by a Bengali engineer named Surendranath Barat and executed by Norman draughtsman Henry Vivian; resulting into a fine amalgamation of both the ethos.

Wasef Manzil

Since the dawn of Hazar Duari Palace, that was the only residence of the Bengal Nawabs until the new building was raised by Wasef Ali. It was built within the same campus of Nizamat Fort, hardly at a stone’s throw distance from Hazar Duari Palace.

Way to Wasef Manzil from Daksin Darwaza inside Nizamat Fort

Unfortunately, a major portion of the construction collapsed during the 1897 earthquake. Though it was renovated later but the second floor could not be rebuilt. It now looks like an open terraced castle with small corner turrets and a green lawn at the entrance. Since then it is often referred as The New Palace of Murshidabad.

Nakal Pahar formed out of debris of old Wasef Manzil

It was around 5pm when we reached there. Sun was about to dusk on the waters of Bhagirathi River. We saw a strange hillock just outside the main building of Wasef Manzil. We were said, the mound was formed by the debris of fallen edifice as if popularly called Nakal Pahar (artificial hill). However, it has been completely overgrown by bushes now, so nothing could be confirmed as such.

Rusting canon at entrance

Pushing a large iron gate we walked inside. Two iron cannons at the entrance dragged our attention. Guide said, they were earlier used for timekeeping; but now, kept only for show.

Rose garden lawn at the entrance of the New Palace

We then crossed a fountained garden and reached the inner palace. The tip of the entry porch bears Nawab’s emblem.

Nawab's emblem at entry porch

The Durbar Hall in ground floor was earlier decorated with chandeliers, sculptures, grand sofas, table chairs, electric fans and Belgium glass mirrors – all imported from London. Aside was a semi-circular pediment (royal armoury) that had armaments like iron coats, helmets, different types of brass knives etc.

Vis-a-vis a marble staircase led to the first floor which had ornate ivory works, housing private seraglio of Nawab’s begums. There was a closed room which vaulted royal jewellery and gold coins. The river-facing hanging veranda was used by Wasef Ali for romantic hours.

Inner palace from Durbar hall

However, all closed for public now and restrictions are imposed on photography. Some of the marble statues, weapons and oil paintings are exhibited in the ground floor in the form of a museum.

There was a secret tunnel at the backside of the palace which directly opened to Chowk Masjid on the other end. But due to unsocial activities during 1970s, it had to be sealed.

Wasef Ali was the first of all the Nawabs of Bengal who was crowned with the title ‘Sir’ by British. He held strong influence on the Governors at Fort William and was a very learned person himself. He was also a man of cultural eminence. A bilingual poet, equally versed in English and Urdu, his books are now exhibited in the Nawab’s library at the ground floor of Wasef Manzil.

After the end of colonial rule, when the imperial possessions were confiscated by Indian Government, Wasef Manzil was also taken over. Since then, it has been converted to an office of the Nawab Estate. The ground floor Durbar Hall and library are used for clerical works whereas the upper floor has two chambers of higher officials. The descendants of the Nawab now stay at Prince’s Quarters, adjacent to the building.

Nach Ghar beside Bhagirathi River

On one side of Wasef Manzil was Dakshin Darwaza (South Gate) and opposite to it was Nach Ghar (open air atrium). Years ago, this side of the fort was used for Jalsa (dance performances by tawaifs) and Nahabat (royal orchestra). By grandeur or dimensions, it’s no way close to the magnificent Hazar Duari Palace, but being located at a strategic location within the fort, it holds a very special repute of its own. It is now marked as a protected monument by ASI.

How to reach:

The easiest mode to reach Murshidabad is to travel by train. There are couple of EMUs namely Hazar Duari Express and Lalgola Passenger; both originate from Sealdah station at comfortable timings. By road, it takes around 6 hours (200 kilometers approx) via NH34. Road conditions are not advisable for small cars.

Where to stay:

There are no accommodation facilities at New Palace. Government tourist lodge is available at Berhampore, around 10 kilometers away. Ample budget hotels are available in Lalbagh area.

What to see around:

Hazar Duari Palace, Nizamat Imambara, Dakshin Darwaza, Madina Masjid, Clock Tower