Lottan Bai Manzil

Discover heritage destinations of Bengal with our travel expert Reetwika Banerjee.

By hearing the word ‘terracotta’ (burnt clay of brick red colour), the first visual that comes to mind is Bishnupur. But I was really amazed to discover this antique terracotta palace, later tuned to a mosque, at the lost capital of Gour.

Initially a planned fort city belonging to the medieval period, Gour had always been a centre of stylish terracotta architecture. Few monuments including royal palaces, mosques, fortifications, prisons etc have passed the ravages of time, but most of them stand in bones and skeletons today; Lottan Bai Manzil being one of the many heritage sites of Gour.

Lottan Bai Manzil

The palatial building is a double domed structure, located on the Mahidpur highway heading towards the Indo-Bangladesh international border. The road was earlier known as King’s way or Governor’s road, but now renamed to Mahidpur highway where it ends at Indian side. Beyond the border is the Nawabganj district of Bangladesh.

Terracotta art on the outer walls

Though named as a mosque now, originally it was built by Sultan Yusuf Shah as the personal residence of his favourite dancer courtesan Lottan Bai. She was a Hindu lady originally named Lata, who was later renamed to Lottan by the Sultan.

Terracotta art on the inner wall with Hindu depictions

Historians say, the lady was an epitome of beauty and creativity. To ensure Lottan Bai’s dignity and also to honour her gorgeousness, the Sultan had built her this colourful mansion in 1475 AD, outside the inner fort of Gour. Majority of the terracotta decors are built in Hindu style including lotuses, temple lamps, chakras etc.

Lamp terracotta design with colourful enamelled stones

The exterior walls were decorated with brightly painted bricks made of coloured glass powder (blue, red, white, green etc), only remnants of which could be witnessed now. It is a pity that the enamelled stones have vanished now, remaining only in bits and pieces on the outer walls. Doors are also locked for public.

View from Inner hall

The inner hall is surrounded by verandas on all sides with sloping roofs. And the entire building is located in the middle of a huge mango orchard, famous for Fajli mangoes even today. The gardens are beautifully maintained by ASI. Parking has to be done on the main road, outside the mosque.

Ancient tree at entrance

A worn out tree in front of the entry gate is the only witness of the century old secrets hidden inside the royal edifice.

How to reach:

Malda can be easily reached by rail or road. From Kolkata airport it is little less than 330 kilometres. By train, you can get down at Malda Town and by road it you may drive via NH34.

Other places to see:

Vestiges of royal dock (‘Jahaj Ghata’), the palace of Hindu kings (‘Ballal Bati’) and their 22-yards high perimeter wall (locally famous as ‘Baish Gazi Dewal’)

In front of Jagaj Ghata

Where to stay:

Unfortunately, there are no luxury accommodations yet. Other than a newly opened 3-star private resort, there is only a budget quality Government lodge for tourist accommodation.