Snow Carpet of Khillanmarg
- toursandjourneys
- Oct 20, 2019
- 6 min read
Updated: Mar 2, 2020
Discover offbeat trails of Kashmir with our travel expert Reetwika Banerjee
Today’s day plan was meant to be the fanciest part of our Kashmir trip – a trek to the land of snow Khillanmarg. It is a snow laden high hill destination in the Kashmir valley with an altitude of 12,500 feet above sea level. Khillanmarg,one of the famous tourist places in Kashmir, is considered as the ultimate ski point of India which receives thousands of international footfalls during winter. It can be easily visited from Gulmarg, which is a breathtaking tourist destination in Kashmir,over a day’s trek. For treks, it is better to carry polaroids for that instant joy.
View of Khillanmarg Mountains from Gulmarg
It is good to tell here that we are soft trekkers, so essentially for people like us, trekking does not mean strenuous ascents with an oxygen cylinder at back, but a tough hike on foot or horse ride.
Nocturnal drizzles had spoiled the morning. It was six o’ clock and the sun could not be seen yet. The Apharwat, Nanga Parbat, Nun and Kun peaks we could spot last evening had hidden behind the clouds. Looking at the climatic conditions, we were utterly disappointed because it was almost impossible for tourists to go for a trek in such a foggy weather.
Our original plan was to start latest by seven but due to lack of visibility we had to wait until ten. At first we went to the Tourist Reception Centre run by state tourism’s office. As the name suggests, it must have been opened with an aim to help the visitors. An old gentleman was delivering a safety awareness session to foreigners when we reached there. It was a good learning for us too in the Gulmarg tour. Little shocked, what we understood goes like this – it is almost impossible to avoid the nagging brokers in Gulmarg trip. They create a lot of noise to grab customers as the tourist season lasts only for a limited span of the year. But once you hire a guide through them, they are very cordial and always there to protect you in the valley. So, during Gulmarg trip,it is advisable to take their assistance and keep away unprecedented hassles up the hill.
Horse Ride to Kongdoori
Eventually we hired three horses with ostlers on hourly basis, a trekking guide, a porter, gumboots and beaver coats for our day long trek to Khillanmarg. Honestly speaking, the rates were steeper than the Himalayan slope. But we swore to avert any debates with them. However, after spending more time with the young Kashmiri men, we discovered a friend in all of them. We got to know about their tough livelihood during off season, their families and children. Warm clothes would be important to carry because of the cold breeze that prevail.
On way to Khillanmarg
Our trip to Khillanmarg would be a mix of horse ride upto Kongdoori (10,000 feet) followed by a cable car mounting to the shoulder of Apharwat Peak (12,500 feet). We commenced our journey from the green meadows of Gulmarg and on way visited Monkey Pan, Golf Course, Children’s Park, Ski Point, and Fishing Lake. For best accommodations in Gulmarg during your Gulmarg trip, follow the link below:-
Trekking by the countryside
While riding, we witnessed a dreadful incident. Another group of tourists were trailing on ponies just behind us. Soon after crossing the burnt site of Mission Kashmir’s “Bumbro o Bumbro…” song, we heard a loud mare’s neigh. Turning back what we saw was terrible! The horse was standing up on his rear legs and the pretty girl on horseback got thrown on the ground in a whisker. It seemed as though the horse was literally yelling in pain. My ostler said, unearthed electrical cables run beneath the grassland of Gulmarg and it is quite a known incident in the valley that after rains when grasses are wet, horses walking above often get electrocuted. I could not comprehend though, how come a horse gets an electric shock running on a green carpet!
It took us exactly two hours to cover the 2000 feet gradual ascent from Gulmarg to Kongdoori along the mountain slopes. We were at Khillanmarg by quarter past twelve.
Gondola Lift from Kongdoori
Reaching there, we let the horses and ostlers go and proceeded only with our porter for the final trek to Apharwat Peak. It was planned in Gondola Lift (constructed by a French firm named Pomagalski) which also happens to be the world’s fourth highest operating cable car service. Tickets were very costly but definitely worth the money. An experience unique of its type!
At Kongdoori – Stage I
Oxygen deficiency could be highly felt at Kongdoori. Our porter was a local guy, quite accustomed to the high altitude ferries. He carried all our belongings from the ropeway boarding point and arranged our tickets without making us wait in the queue. It was full of snow as we climbed higher.
Way to Apharwat Peak
There were two stages of the Gondola – the first stage (approx. 600 meters) transfers from Gulmarg to Kongdoori station in about 9 minutes and the next stage to Mary’s Shoulder (approx. 1 kilometer) in about 12 minutes. Thereafter, the area beyond line of control falls under Pakistan, locally popular as Azaad (independent) Kashmir. The initial operations had started way back in 1998 but the second stage was opened to public only in 2005. A medical test needs to be done to set for the final trail as many first time skiers require additional oxygen at the Apharwat summit (approx. 14,000 feet). Carry boots to have a better grip on the lands and to travel safe.
At the Apharwat Summit
The Gondola operation timing is 10 am to 5 pm but it is at the mercy of the prevailing weather conditions. Especially at the second stage, it is highly vulnerable. Also, a wagon can carry only six adults at a time. With 50 cabins traversing across thirty towers to and fro the Gulmarg boarding station, visitors are allowed only two hours including both the stages.
Mary’s Shoulder at Khillanmarg
We reached the summit at 1 o'clock and our return time stamped by the army official was at two. Any delay leads to severe punishments by order. The heavenly view from the top made me wordless for a moment. It was a 360-degree canvas of Pir Panjal snow peaks at an eye level. I truly felt like on top of the world. Chilly winds pinned our skin like a sharp blade but I could not flaunt to take off my rented fur coat and pose for an achiever’s photograph.
Descent by Gondola – Drizzles started
During our descent, we took a short break at Kongdoori station. Drizzles had started again. Apart from ski joints, wooden sledges were also available to offer us a skating experience. But we preferred to relish a cup of Kashmiri tea at Kong Posh bistro. I would rather say it was more of a waiting hall than a typical café. Way back, we flew over the Gaddi huts when I saw a little girl waving at our Gondola cabin. As I waved back, her golden smile concluded our Khillanmarg trek with cherished memories.
Short break at Kong Posh
Gaddi Huts seen from Gondola
We were back to Gulmarg station within the given time. It was around three in the afternoon. Before calling it a day, I insisted our driver to take us to that shop where we had halted on way to Gulmarg. The old man was utterly happy to know why we came particularly to his shop. It always gives me a pleasure to keep my word, however insignificant it may be. His lip-smacking onion pakodas was perhaps my return gift.
Tea break at roadside stall
Gulmarg is a very small valley with thin native population, handful of wool vendors and pure veg Punjabi restaurants. Though it was only five, we preferred to pack our dinner from a roadside Punjabi dhaba than to order Jain veg thali back at hotel. The Maha Rani temple was pretty near. So while the cook prepared our order, we quickly visited the temple. Being on a hilltop taking a flight of say 50 stairs, the entire Gulmarg valley could be seen from its balcony.
Maha Rani Temple of Gulmarg
Night falls very early at Gulmarg. Also our limbs too revolted against any further strains. Packing the stuffs for next destination, room lights were switched off by eight. Sunglasses can also be carried for a soothing experience. I hope that this blog on my Kashmir trip spikes the interest in travellers to visit this famous tourist place in Kashmir.
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