A Soft Trek to Gumba Dara

Discover offbeat Himalayan trails of Bengal with our travel expert Reetwika Banerjee.

Gumba Dara is one of the latest additions in the North Bengal circuit. 30 kilometers away from Darjeeling, it is a quaint viewpoint in the lap of nature. Not high by altitude (around 6500 feet above mean sea level), but if you yearn to detox from city bustles, then nothing could be a better getaway. I had been to Gumba Dara last winter on a solo trip.

Trek to Gumba Dara

‘Gumba’ in Nepali means monastery and ‘Dara’ means hilltop. The place owes its name to an ancient Buddhist monastery which was situated inside a natural cave at the hilltop. However, it is almost in ruins now.

Way to Buddhist cave

Near the old monastery of Gumba Dara

A relatively new monastery has been built around 1.5 kilometers away. Though mostly open for tourists round the year, it can be reached only on foot with no belongings including camera, mobile etc.

Ghee lamp at the monastery

The best part of Gumba Dara is the scenic trek through the tea gardens which is aptly rewarded with a panoramic view of the Eastern Himalayas from its summit. The trail is little steeper and shorter than the one through the pine dhupi. But beware of Tarantulas (popularly known as Baboon Spider) and leopards if you choose to take the jungle hike.

Alternative trail through the pine forest

Both trajectories will land you to the same viewpoint and that is one and only Gumba Dara. I preferred to enjoy charming views of the tea gardens and thus kept crawling up the greens.

Crawling up the Namring tea garden to Gumba Dara

It was initially cloudy when I reached the summit but after waiting for an hour or so, clouds made way to sunshine. I was lucky to witness a wide view of the mountains whilst the meandering Teesta River flowing downhill.

Gumba dara viewpoint

Wide view from Gumba Dara

On three sides, it was surrounded by tea gardens namely Peshoke, Rangliot and Namring estates. And if you are a bird lover like me, Gumba Dara can turn out to be a paradise. Say any Himalayan bird, you can find it here in its virgin habitat. Breezes too don’t disturb their livelihood, housing a healthy biodiversity.

Peshoke tea garden

Tuned to the winged residents and hissing cedars, I did not realize when the clock needle crossed midday. By 2 o’ clock, I left. Way back, I took a daring decision to descent through the coppices. Believe me, hiking down an unknown Himalayan forest alone was the most idiotic call. One must avoid at any cost unless you are an ultimate adventurer. Let me narrate my haunting experience then you would cognize it better.

I have been a true globetrotter, travelling lengths and breadths of my country and abroad since my childhood, but had never encountered such a horrifying creature before!

Sun had started its descent along with me. I had barely reached half way when the scariest thing happened to me. I stepped on a palm sized, black, thick, hairy spider… my goodness! It was a Tarantula. Yes, you read it right. Tarantula in India and that too in our Bengal!

(For those who still did not anticipate the hell of danger that I had bumped onto, Tarantula is the most venomous spider of the world which can attack humans from yards away. If bitten, death is almost inevitable.)

Black Tarantula (Baboon Spider) in Gumba Dara

The distant sound of monastery drums was hitting me like a death bell. The hissing sound of the pine trees echoed like a devil. I really did not know how to respond.

Gathering courage, I somehow flung off the place and literally ran the remaining path without looking back. I was sure of being chased by the black monster.

By the time I reached my homestay, had no breaths left to spare. With luck on my side that day, it did not hunt me the way I had apprehended though.

It was so scary an experience that even today when I dream of the beauty of Gumba Dara, glimpses of that black, hairy, baboon spider haunts me. Undeniably it’s the worst nightmare a leisure traveler can have! Having said so, if you wish to enjoy the beauty of unspoiled nature, take a tour of Gumba Dara through the tea garden side and cherish silent hours of solitude with the chilly breeze blowing around.

How to Reach:

A light trek from Tinchuley is the only way to reach Gumba Dara viewpoint. There are no motor vehicles available in this route.

Where to Stay:

There are no tourist lodges at Gumba Dara. A couple of homestays are there in Tinchuley, around 1.5 kilometers away. It is best to cover in a half day sightseeing trip from Darjeeling or Kalimpong.

What to See Around:

Peshoke Tea Garden, Buddhist Caves, Tinchuley Monastery, Nirmal Orange Orchards, Lover’s Point

Best Time of Visit:

October to April

Weather Conditions:

No snowfalls experienced at Gumba Dara, however heavy woolens are needed during December and January months. Monsoons must be avoided.