Hanseshwari Temple of Bansberia

Discover heritage destinations of Bengal with our travel expert Reetwika Banerjee.

Bengal boasts of a variety of architectural excellences and one of the most unique temples could be found at Hooghly district’s Bansberia. Erstwhile Zamindars of Dutta family had built an array of Hindu temples in this area, under the Mughal patronage, of which Hanseshwari Temple stands out the most.

Hanseshwari Temple

Hanseshwari Temple of Bansberia

We had been on a day trip from Kolkata. The road conditions were pathetic at some places, leading to an unpleasing driving experience. However we reached around quarter to twelve in the morning. There were no visual legends on way, so locating the exact spot was little difficult. But local people guided us through the bye lanes ever since we left the high road.

The temple construction was started by King Nrisingha Deb in 1790s, however due to his untimely demise, it was left abandoned for few years. Later between 1810 and 1817, his widow queen Shankari steered the completion of the temple.

Lotus domes

Lotus Domes

Many argue that King Nrisingha Deb was an ardent practitioner of Tantric cult which led to such an unusual architectural pattern of a Hindu temple. It has thirteen towers levelled at five different tiers, each tapering to a lotus dome. Others say, it was his queen Shankari, a lady of open outlook, who brought in the blend of Russian style during the completion phase. There is a stark similarity of this temple with Moscow’s Pokrovsky Cathedral which sources in support of the latter theory.

Hanseswari and Ananta Basudev idols

Haneshwari Temple

The governing deity of the temple is Hanseshwari (‘Han’ means Shiva and ‘Saa’ means Shakti), an incarnation of Goddess Kali. Surprisingly, Nrisingha Deb’s mother, a dark complexioned woman of substance, also bore the same name and persona. The idol is painted in blue and is made of neem wood, in contrary to metallic casting prevalent in that era.

Well maintained temple complex

Temple Complex

Beautiful landscaped garden

Beautiful Landscape Garden

The temple houses a beautiful landscaped garden and an old terracotta temple dedicated to Ananta Basudev, a form of Lord Vishnu. Even today, regular prayers are offered to both the deities and animal sacrifices are performed daily.

Ananta Basudev temple in same complex

Anata Basudev

Other temple deities

Temple Diery

Daily animal sacrifices to the deity

Animal Sacrifices

The ruins of royal residence of the Dutta’s still exist behind the temple complex, however being a private property, trespassing is strictly prohibited.

Ruins of Dutta Palace behind the temple

Ruins of Daata Place

How to reach:

Best is to take a local train on Howrah-Katwa main line and get down at Bansberia or Tribeni station. Innumerable totos and hand pulled rickshaws are available for temple drop. It takes around one hour to reach the place.

Alternatively, you can drive through Old Delhi Road or GT Road from Kolkata, but the conditions are not so conducive for smooth drive. Distance would be around 60 kilometers but it may take more than three hours if one-ways are closed intermittently due to construction works.

Where to stay:

There are no places to stay at Bansberia. It is best suited for a day trip from Kolkata.

What to see around:

Ananta Basudev Temple, Tribeni Sangam

Hanseshwari Temple as seen from the pond side

Haswani Temple