At the Valley of Flowers – Gulmarg
- toursandjourneys
- Oct 13, 2019
- 6 min read
Updated: Mar 30, 2020
Gulmarg valley of flowers.
Discover offbeat trails of Kashmir with our travel expert Reetwika Banerjee
Gulmarg, the ‘Valley of Flowers’ is no doubt one of the best tourist attractions of India. It is located in the Baramulla district of Union Territory of Kashmir. Altitude is not very high, around 8700 feet; being guarded by lofty Pir Panjal range in the north, golden flower beds and frozen meadows at heart and lush greeneries on other sides, this cup shaped valley is often called the darling of Kashmir. Once here, Gulmarg will never let you forget its charm.
A glimpse of Gulmarg
The valley finds mentions in Indian mythology where it is referred as ‘Gauri Marg’ as it was believed that Goddess Durga (alias Gauri) had resided here for a night on her way to Kailash. Later during 16th century, Sultan Yousuf Shah renamed it to Gulmarg in honour of his wife Habba Khatoon. Innumerable varieties of flowers unique to this place are found in Gulmarg even today and hence the catch phrase ‘valley of flowers’. But during winters, Gulmarg gets totally covered under snow and thus sets the stage for skiing and polar golf. Very few Indian hill stations cater to high altitude sports infrastructure which makes Gulmarg one of the top winter sports destinations of India. Please carry umbrellas to avoid the scorching heat.
Way to Gulmarg from Srinagar
Apart from the natural beauty, there are a couple of things which can be visited as sightseeing – Maharani Temple of Dogra Dynasty and St. Mary’s Church of Roman Catholics. This is the temple which features in the 1974 Bollywood blockbuster ‘Aap Ki Kasam’ movie’s Burman melody “Jay Jay Shiv Shankar/ Kaanta lagena kankar/ Ke pyaala tere naam ka piya…”
Valley of Flowers
The valley wears different looks with the change is seasons but there is not a single day when Gulmarg loses its appeal. That is why natives often say, “Gulmarg ka mausam aur Bambai ka fashion ka koi bharosa nahi. Kabhi bhi badal sakta hain.” Meaning, Gulmarg’s weather and Mumbai’s fashion are so vulnerable that either can change anytime. There is a romantic intoxication in its air which will make you fall in love with this slice of paradise at your first step.
Road trip to Gulmarg
The road distance from Srinagar is hardly 55 kilometers, but due to fluctuating climatic conditions uphill, we were advised to start early. So by 8am, we were all set to leave for my dream destination – Gulmarg. It was again gloomy Sonu, our driver, and his Ford Ikon.
Refueling at Tangmarg
From Srinagar to Tangmarg, the 40 kilometer road was mostly through the plains. The local markets, Secretariat building, honking autos, rowdy tempos, overtaking buses all appeared so similar to hullabaloo city life! The only differences were cottony flying firs of Chinar trees and the hilly landscape at the background.
It took us just over an hour to reach Tangmarg Apple Orchard where we took a break and Sonu refueled the car for next stretch of uphill journey. There was a newly opened café named Sundus Restaurant which caught our eyes. Generally nobody will expect such a name for a food joint. Having a cup of Kashmiri tea, we took a walk inside the Apple Orchard. Kashmir’s saffron mixed green tea is a must try here.
Tea break at Sundus Restaurant
It was not the harvest season, so there were only green unripe buds hanging from the trees, tied with pink jackets. It took no imagination to visualize the final look of the apples – exactly what we see at our city malls selling branded Kashmiri apples. Few cherry trees were also there at the backside of the garden but they too were immature during our visit.
Tangmarg Apple Orchard
We did not realize when we climbed almost 200 feet inside the orchard. As we reached the top, view of the surroundings mesmerized us. Truly breathtaking! Snow peaks of Pir Panjal range were at a pebble throwing distance. Strangely, the mercury at Tangmarg indicated 22°C. But as clouds started accumulating, the view gradually faded and a cold breeze kissed us.
View from top of Apple Orchard
It was 10:45 when we resumed our final drive to Gulmarg. Still 15 more kilometers to go. Sonu told we should reach in another one hour. Glimpses of Jhelum could be seen as we rode up the hills but it disappeared after entering the Gulmarg wildlife sanctuary. In winter, SUV is highly recommended on this narrow road as it gets highly slippery due to frequent avalanches. For areas like these, it is best to wear covered shoes.
Drive through Gulmarg wildlife sanctuary
While checking out from Srinagar, I remembered the parting note of our hotel manager, “Beware of cunning middlemen in Gulmarg.” We got a hang of his caution statement the moment we left Tangmarg. Hardly have we come half a kilometer, our driver directly stopped the car at a roadside tapri (thatched roof shop) to make us hire gum boots, beaver coats and sticks for Khillanmarg trek. He did not even bother to ask before stopping the car whether we at all have a plan for the trek. We somehow managed to flee this time.
Green forests of conifers
Sonu’s every attempt to spoil our mood was overruled by the surreal beauty and chilling wind. It abruptly became icy cold the deeper we went into the woodland. Anyone who watched movies like Sikander or Haider, will anytime recognize the shooting spots while travelling through the dense pine forest. Green slopes amidst the conifers and sharp hairpin bends would at once remind you of those Altaf-Sikander secret meets and Haider firings.
Approaching Gulmarg
Deficiency of oxygen could be felt at every ascending step towards Gulmarg. It was close to an hour’s drive, when we decided to take a quick break. The Himalayas were stunningly visible from a specific point, which later we understood was the roof of a small tea shop. I would have loved to relish a cup of hot beverage, if I hadn’t just sometime back. The old owner’s disappointment touched me so much that I promised to come back for a tea later.
Panoramic view of Mt. Apharwat
Our rooms were booked at Hotel Poshwan, (for bookings in the hotel refer to the following link):-
Booking.com
beside Gulmarg Golf Course, the highest green golf course in the world. The eye-candy valley was blooming with daisies, forget-me-nots and buttercups among many others. Snow caps of Nanga Parbat, Harmukh and Mt. Apharwat entrapped us like a python engulfs its prey. The LOC is hardly a few kilometers from here and almost all round the year, Gulmarg receives snowfall. Temperature would be close to 5°C. I was standing in front of the hotel while my father was completing check-in formalities. As I looked around, I got surprised to find innumerable marble rocks scattered here and there. From a distance they would look like white stones but after an intimate gaze, I was amazed to discover them to be snow mounds. With time they have become so solid that they can be easily mistaken as marble rocks. It was around 12 noon. Light clouds did not allow sunlight to beam on the peaks, but whatever was visible contented us instantly. Needless to say, the ambiance was truly gorgeous! Realized why Gulmarg is called the gem of Kashmir.
Snow mounds in front of hotel
Initially the receptionist asked us a few questions, but as soon as he found Sonu following us, his expressions turned friendly immediately. Got another indication of “Yeh to apna aadmi hai”, reflecting a kind of ‘he is our guy’ attitude. As we were escorted to our room on first floor, we crossed an unanticipated banner near the staircase – “Jain Gujarati Thali available here.” Surprising isn’t it? Later we got to know it is the only hotel in Gulmarg which serves authentic pure vegetarian food.
At our hotel reception
Unlocking the door of 103 the boy left. Believe me, the room was too mediocre compared to the hefty tariff. At such a beautiful place like Gulmarg, tourists should not be offered so dully lighted soggy chamber and the thought echoed with all of us at the first glance. Unlike the exteriors, every corner of the room bore a pessimistic feel. Nonetheless, the restroom was quite well maintained and had all basic amenities.
View of Golf Course from our room
Travelling since early morning, did not leave any energy left in us to go for a lunch outside. Had whatever was left with us and dived into an ocean of awesome sleep within the furry blankets.
Gulmarg – the gem of Kashmir
It took us almost the entire day to acclimatize to the high hill meteorological conditions. Evening temperature declined probably to subzero. Dinner was ordered by seven from the in-house restaurant. Early retirement was much needed to gear up for tomorrow’s trek to Khillanmarg. If you are a solo traveller, carry a bag for keeping everything in order.
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